Mark Greene There’s no denying that Rolex is one of the most well-known luxury watch brands in the world. Even if you don’t own one, chances are you would be able to spot one while walking down the street or shaking the hand of someone who is wearing one. Simply put, Rolex is the ultimate status symbol; the scale upon which success is often measured. This fact alone is enough to make any collector aspire to own at least one timepiece from the world-renowned brand. If you’re lucky enough to afford an extensive collection, or simply wish to make a well-informed decision before purchasing one, we’ve compiled a list of the top four watches that every Rolex watch collection needs.
Submariner
One of the most recognizable models is the Rolex Submariner, which should come as no surprise considering it’s been on the market for well over 60 years and has been a fixture in TV and film since its big screen debut in 1962’s Dr. No. While collectors were certainly impressed by its incredible waterproofness when it hit the market in 1954, the Submariner’s presence on the wrist of James Bond himself sealed its status as a fashion and watch icon, which makes it more than qualified for the #1 spot in our list.
Produced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1954 at Basel Watch Fair. The model comes in Oystersteel, white & yellow gold, and two-tone metals with date and no date variants. Made famous by James Bond films, this iconic sports watch has a 40mm case size and functions as a dive watch. Suggested retail price starts at $7,500 as of 2018” according to Bob’s Watches.
The Submariner is offered in a variety of feature sets including stainless steel, two-tone, and gold finishes, making it easy for any collector to find a reference that suits their lifestyle. However, since 1953 Rolex’s diver has remained true to the core design of the inaugural model, offering a waterproof case, a bezel with 60-minute graduations, and a dial topped with a luminous display. This dedication to timeless style makes the Submariner the grail watch of many as well as a fixture of most Rolex collections.
Daytona
The Rolex Daytona is a chronograph and offers a style that is unlike any other timepiece available on the lineup, and that is precisely why it’s a necessity for any luxury watch collection. The case measures a traditional 40mm and is worn on either an Oyster bracelet or a genuine leather strap and is available in steel, two-tone, and precious metal finishes. The case also boasts stopwatch functions that can be accessed via side pushers, giving the Daytona its signature look. Many references, old and new, are considered collector’s items, from the Zenith “El Primero” model and the vintage Paul Newman with an Art Deco dial to the elusive Oystersteel (Stainless Steel) and Cerachrom (Ceramic) ref. 116500.
In particular, the newest generation of the Daytona in Oystersteel is highly sought-after thanks to the more budget-friendly stainless steel finish as well as the addition of a Cerachrom bezel insert with a new-style Tachymeter engraving. These references sell for a higher price on the secondary market due to high demand and short supply, in most cases commanding much more than the retail price of $12,400. If you’re lucky enough to find the coveted steel and ceramic references at retail we recommend jumping on it.
Vintage or modern, all forms of the Daytona are timeless and worth collecting. For decades, highly influential people have been known to call the Daytona their go-to piece, including notorious racing enthusiast Paul Newman and musicians Eric Clapton and Adam Levine, putting anyone who owns one in great company. In fact, Paul Newman’s personal Daytona recently sold at auction for the incredible price of $17.8 million, drumming up even more interested among collectors for the model. Its prominent hold in the spotlight ensures that the legend of the brand’s sleek racing watch will live on for generations to come.
GMT Master II
The GMT Master II is a quintessential sports watch, offering classic style, impressive timekeeping capabilities, and, above all else, an incredible history that dates all the way back to the dawn of commercial transatlantic flight. Rolex developed the aviator’s watch alongside the Pan American Company as a tool watch for commercial pilots.
The original model featured a masculine stainless steel finish, a two-tone bezel, and was capable of reading two time zones at once via a fourth hand on the dial and a rotatable 24-hour bezel. A few decades later in 1983, the brand announced an upgrade to the original model in the form of the GMT Master II. Its claim to fame was an updated movement that allowed for the fourth hand on the dial to be set independently of the other hands, resulting in the ability to read up to three time zones at once. Several decades later, collectors still seek the GMT Master II for its impressive functions, classic style, and intriguing history.
Similar to the Daytona, Modern variations of the GMT Master II are currently taking the market by storm, particularly the Oystersteel and Cerachrom ref. 116710. Offering what collectors often refer to as a “Super Case” and a new-style bracelet with a solid clasp, the latest generation of GMTs are right on-trend with modern watch tastes. References that offer two-tone bezels, such as the “Batman” ref. 116710BLNR are especially sought-after for the innovative technologies that are required to produce a two-tone bezel in ceramic as well as for the attractive retail price of $8,950.
Datejust
Classic, timeless, and sophisticated, the Datejust is a must-have simply for the reason that every watch collection needs at least one dress reference, and there’s no better option than the Datejust. The brand’s iconic dress watch is subtle enough for daily wear and business attire but can also be formal when you need it to be.
The case on men’s references measures either 36mm or 41mm and is worn on a five-link Jubilee or a three-link Oyster bracelet. In true Rolex fashion, each Datejust is available in several metal finishes to suit a variety of watch tastes and budgets from $3k used to over $20k retail. Of course, there are many dress watches worthy of this list that offer similar features, but the Datejust takes it one step further with the addition of a date mechanism within the movement.
